You won’t believe, but First Texas has released an update for its Teknetics Tek-Point and Fisher F-Pulse probes. The PP_R1 is the old version, the PP_R2 is the new one. The only thing is that you won’t be able to update it yourself.
Problem #1. False responses
Many Teknetics Tek-Point and Fisher F-Pulse owners are complaining about false responses. Sometimes it ends in the product returns. A quick button press (to tune out the environment) calms the unit down for a while, but in 15-20 seconds false beeps appear again.
Warning: there isn’t any official information from the manufacturer here. Sadly, but FT frankly ignores (or covers up) the problems users have faced. All things written in this post are exclusively pinpointer owners’ experience or inkling.
Not all detectorists are up against the false signals problem while using the Teknetics Tek-Point and Fisher F-Pulse (these two are identical probes actually, it’s just color that is different). Some people’s probes work perfectly, whereas others start “falsing” when first time out. Presumably, the problem appears when you use non-standard high capacity batteries, e.g. the AA carbon zinc ones. Thus, if your pinpointer emits false signals, think about finding a batteries replacement solution.
Problem #2. The button
Commenter Антон writes that his Teknetics Tek-Point button fell out. And that’s definitely strange for the underwater probe which can be submerged up to several meters. Such pinpointers must be overdesigned.
First, it’s just a single case so far, and up to this day there haven’t been any technical failures stated in regard to the Teknetics Tek-Point and Fisher F-Pulse buttons on a wide scale. However, the owners need to be careful with the pinpointer button and always keep an eye on it.
Second, the button breakdown is the most common pinpointer problem. This is the case of all the probes, not just the Teknetics Tek-Point and Fisher F-Pulse. And the more pinpointers will be sold, the more owners having problems will appear. The unit button is constantly pressed by the finger and is influenced by such factors as dirt, moisture, sand, temperature fall, careless transportation and storage. Usually, the protective rubber (button cap) tears first, and moisture penetrates inside through the holes.
Keep in mind (this refers to all pinpointer owners, irrespective of the model) that you can buy a rubber pinpointer button, a rubber cap, separately. It’s dirt-cheap, around $1-5 depending on the seller’s impudence. And you can replace this rubber yourself, there is nothing difficult about it. Here below you can see a list of tags. Find the tag ‘pinpointer repair’ and there will be examples of how to replace the rubber button.
Problem #3. Software update
Surely manufacturers do change something in their pinpointers: electronics, sensitivity, housing plastic type or other things. But they never say anything about such upgrades. At least I’ve never heard about a new software update for a probe… until today.
First Texas has released a new software version for its Teknetics Tek-Point and Fisher F-Pulse. The differences from the old one are so considerable that the manufacturer had to give this fact to the public and try to spruce up the pinpointer’s image against the backdrop of complaints from those who have already bought the device. Kind of, well, we have already improved it.
The new software update is marked PP_R2 (version 2). The old one has a PP_R1 marking (version 1). Guess on the first try, what answer will the dealer give to your legitimate question about the pinpointer software version?
What’s new in the PP_R2. The first version of the Teknetics Tek-Point and Fisher F-Pulse had a problem: the probe locked up if you turned it on while overloaded – for instance, if the pinpointer’s tip is closely in front of metal when you turn the unit on. Because of such situation (and it can really happen in practice), the owner has to remove the batteries from the probe, to install them again and tune the pinpointer anew. Roughly speaking, to do a hard reset against his unit.
In the R2 version the default time-out has been extended from 2 seconds to 3 seconds. But the main thing is that the manufacturer added the Turbo-On mode to R2. It allows to pass over the standard auto calibration procedure and to reduce the amount of power-on time. The bonus time is approximately… ? seconds. And there is more. We’ve just mentioned the Turbo-On mode. Apart from this one, there is also another mode, called Turbo-OFF. It’s related somehow to the retune feature, too. And these both modes can be turned on simultaneously. I don’t know how it all shakes out. If there is anyone here who is already using R2, maybe you can explain it to us?
How to determine the pinpointer software version? It isn’t difficult. In R1, while turned on and overloaded, the probe locks up. You should take a coin, put it to the pinpointer tip and turn on the unit. If you hear an overload signal (maximum audio response), apparently it’s the PP_R2. If the pinpointer doesn’t turn on, or turns on and locks up, it’s the PP_R1.
All about the Fisher F-Pulse is collected here (news, tests, comparisons with other devices, different reviews and opinions). Plus, on Knowledgebase pages there is additional information you should know before buying the Fisher F-Pulse. The experience of others will help you save your time and money. Happy hunting to everyone!
Christ Knows what all thats about, I have a tek-point and its the probe to beat all, power and performance, never had an issue with it from day one!
Don’t use it at the tideline in wet holes. I had 3 of them leak and die, only a few months old.
I just took mine apart and fixed a coil wire issue. It also took on water first use out of the box. I found the source of the “leeking” to be a grommet that they used in the light assembly. I replaced the grommet and used a small dab of silicone lube on the new one. For now it does not take on water any longer and is working well. First time since I purchased it.
All function worked but it would not detect metal. Returned it.
A coil wire disconnected/solder broke. I just fixed mine. Made in China, assembled in Mexico!
I don’t know which version I have. I only know I haven’t had any issues with it. I love it. I had generally use the Bullseye TRX and didn’t think I’d be impressed by any others after experiencing its range. Then the Tek-Point came along and it gets the range of the TRX in pulse induction. Now I use both. Interestingly, both were made by Carl Moreland. TRX while he was at Whites (it was to be like the Mi6 before the Mi6, but Whites sold Morelands wireless patent to XP), and now the Tek-Point after he moved to First Texas. He also plans to make a VLF discriminating pinpointer that will synchronize to new machines
My sound fails when it gets wet. It still works, but only on vibrate. After 2:hours drying the sound comes back. Most people testing and reviewing have not thought of water. I dig beaches at the shoreline and the holes fill with water. If it stops working when wet… Then it is not a waterproof detector. I hope all of them don’t have this problem and Teknetics can fix this.
I hate this pinpointer. It behaves really badly. I always have to test it against some metal if it is on or not. Now it gives false signals all the time. Just considering to buy something else instead. I think it will be Vibra Probe again.
Used it 4 times , first day was perfect and i was happy with it , really happy ..
2nd time problems , re – tuned itself on and on ..
Going dead when i need it , came to life when i want it to shut up , runned up a whole reset progamming blah blah blah , other batteries ..
Other people gave it checked twice ..
Now he is going back to the factory or in the recycle bin .
It is the most annoying pinpointer that i have ever used .
It is nothing but a piece of shit.
You basically stated what I was going to say.
I will never get another Fisher product again after being ripped off on this pinpointer by them.
They know it is a massive failure and should have done trade-ins or something for the supposedly improved version or whatever to make it right for all I know I had the V2. They should have stood behind their product. Instead, they knowingly let us get screwed over. I know I am out a lot of money on an overpriced paperweight or more accurately how you put it a piece of shit.
Mine worked out of the box at the end of last season, one time, when beand new. After using it in the field one time and being stored with batteries removed it started acting erratic. Second time I used it, after I put it away after the first time I used it, 3rd time hunting, it turns on, acts like it’s going to work goes through all the functions, but won’t find a piece of metal. It will not detect metal but it’ll still false when you shake or tap it.
This is a POS. I fixed the POS.
Two big issues.
First, they leak through the light. That is what some of the falsing is about that some people complain about, but I think they realize it is from water getting in. When I used mine the one time it actually worked, I did use it in shallow water river/stream. Luckily for me it was fresh water.
They used a rubber grommet and it doesn’t seal well and in time they will shrink and fail. Mine leaked out of the box apparently. I had assumed the plastic led light holders were somehow molded in the pinpointers housing, that is not the case, at least with this one. I attempted to use a fatter grommet but it shaved just a little off the fatter grommet when I pushed the light assembly back in. So, I used the “correct” thickness of grommet and a dab of silicone lube as I do when replacing Excalibur pot grommets. These should not be considered waterproof. Mine is now, but for how long? I don’t know. They use a very thin membrane at the speaker hole. I doubled up on that. I had planned on using this in shallow water including satl. That is why I got it.
The second issue this had was also do to pore assembly/design. Under the hot glue they use to hold the coil wires in place from pulling out during assembly, one side was not soldered or soldered well and was held in place by the hot glue. This is why after I put it away then got it back out it would not find metal as the wire had lost its ever so fragile hot glue connection. I had assumed that was the case just didn’t get around to taking it apart since I thought Fisher should have stood behind their product, which they do not as far as I am concerned.
I was going to fix it and sell it off since it looks as good as new because it was only used once in sand and water, but I will give it chance since I have looked at the paperweight for so long and it should be better than new now.
Good luck with your F-bomb if you have one.
I said grommet but ment O-ring.
Mmmm… owned my F-Pulse for a year and a half for land fishing. Took it out to an Estuary and it drowned. Found some liquid around the batteries. Removed he water logged batteries and filled the battery well with sushi rice and in the cylinder cupboard. Will see what happens… sad day :(
They can be disassembled and cleaned with deoxit or even alcohol. You would have been at minimum in brackish water it will continue to corrode after the moisture has evaporated. Lube or try to “chase” the leak in the lights O-ring and lube the battery cover threads in the future if you get it back up. Plan B) sell it on ebay for parts.
Also they have a thin membrane sealing a small hole under the speaker grill that allows sound to permeate. If that round hole has been punctured it would flood with water. Bad design for water use but yet good for land. Typical in pinpointers not meant to go deep or be submerged for long periods of time.
hi.. my fpulse does not turn on…. i turned it off while it was running and it wouldn’t turn on again.. it beeps, it doesn’t turn on. What do you think is the reason.. I bought it in 2020
Is it turning on since it beeps? will it go through any functions and just not detect metal? If so, mine did that before I took it apart and soldered down the coil wire as posted.
Just opened New”* tech point today, 3-5-22 , worked great for first 15 min, after that retuned/ freq. ECT… False over & over.. overload.. what’s the deal, ? New version.. hmmm.
Use 1.2 volt rechargeable batteries. Depending how they are assembled in Mexico it could also be picking up on the wires for the light if they do not pull them back as they slide in the internals. I picked up a second one that had that issue. Try it on a lower setting and also make sure there is no emi interference. Next step is to return it or sell it for parts and get the China (they lie) Carrett from Garrett. Solid pinpointer with little headache. Last time I took an F pulse out with me it was fine in the air but falsed every time in the hole.I had made the mistake of putting in brand new 1,5 volt batteries they were not labeled “heavy duty” but still a no go with it. I took 2 detectors out with me that day Equinox 800 and Nokta Multi Cruzer to compare with the 800. It hated the Cruzer. I literally had to get up and move the Cruzer a ridiculous (2 steps) distance away to even try to use the f-pulse, that wouldn’t work correctly anyway due to the new batteries I had just installed for the hunt.
I have been trying to use my F-pulse now that it “works” but with the F-pulse or the tech point make sure you have a good back up pinpointer with you. I loaned a friend that day my Carrott and boy was I kicking myself in the ass. That’s how fast a pinpointer acting up can ruin your day out. But some credit to the f false is when it does work, it is good. But they sort of remind me of a coil with a crack in it.
Got mine today, out of the box, on 4.16.2022, and going thru the setup and trying to have the probe emit sound only, that seems to be missing from the setup menu…It will just emit beeps with vibrate, or vibrate only…it cannot be set up to do sound, or beep only…anyone know of this???